Wandering Venice
We first arrived in Venice in December 2019 a month after the Aqua Granda floods. Although prepared to what we were to see I could not believe what we were actually experiencing. It was dark, wet and cold but still breathtaking.
Even now, after some 20 visits, Venice never fails to reveal something new or shine new light on something familiar and yet still intriguing and wonderful.
There is lots of colour in Venice, some you have to search for admittedly, but it is there all around. From the faded remnants of Renaissance paint and coloured marble to the bright gold mosaics in San Marco to the bright blue of the early spring sky and the muted greens of the Adriatic Sea nearby.
Converting (I shoot colour and then decide) to black and white brings out the contrast of light and dark, stone and water. It allows the eye to concentrate on the architecture which appears to change in differing light conditions and the history that permeates the very air you breathe.
The Rialto Bridge from the 'other' side (December 2019)
The ‘iconic’ view of the Rialto Bridge from further along the Grand Canal is well known. Tourists flock to the middle of the bridge to take that (again) iconic selfie down the canal towards Byron’s Palazzo. But, we believe the best shot is from the ‘other’ side and actually of the bridge itself.
The domes of the Salute from Via Garibaldi (February 2022)
Christmas lights adorn the Via Garibaldi as we peer at maximum zoom over to the Salute church.
San Giorgio Maggiore sits majestically opposite San Marco (February 2022)
The Church stands on its own island in the bacino opposite San Marco. The campanile is another good way of seeing the entirety of the Centro Storico (the old city main island) without the tourist queues and press. It is one of our favourite places to both visit and view from different angles (it features in many of my photos). This is one of those views that appears to change in appearance with the seasons and the weather.
The San Marco campanile and San Teodoro from Piazzetta San Marco (June 2022)
The Campanile, Library and San Theodore with his “dragon” all loom over the Piazzetta and Piazza San Marco.
The Lavena band discuss repertoire in Piazza San Marco (June 2022)
A highlight of Piazza San Marco are the coffee shop bands, a very agreeable mix of music that swirls around the colonnades and open space of the piazza always different but never clashing. Our special spot is at the Caffé Lavena (frequented by Richard Wagner et al) and their band is superb - I have been known to chat to them musician to musician but still haven’t had a gig confirmed. Here we see the running order being discussed between numbers. We sit inside beneath the Wagner memorial plaque to avoid the outside tourist surcharge and have also been known to join the locals standing at the bar for that all important ‘doppio’ in the morning.
San Giorgio again, this time with the gondola mooring poles along the fondamenta (June 2022)
A traveller waits at the gondola station at San Samuele, on a winter evening (December 2022)
Gondola and water taxis on the Grand Canal in summer (June 2023)
The grand canal is a busy working waterway. Barges of all sizes move food, drink, clothes, laundry, furniture and refuse around. The vaporetti are the public transport buses that provide a very important lifeline to the city. Motoscaffi, the Water Taxis, are the posh way to see the city from the waterline in Italian-made comfort and style. Then there is the gondola, the traditional transport for small groups. (Do not confuse the gondola and the traghetto, a larger vessel powered by two gondolieri that take passengers across the grand canal as an alternative, originally the only, way.) Locals stand in the centre of the vessel even carrying shopping bags! The Gondolieri are highly skilled and knowledgable about their city - all local born and bred - listen to them and follow their instructions.
Early morning on the Grand Canal, the magnificent Salute Basilica keeps watch over the city (June 2023)
A foggy afternoon on the Grand Canal in late January, 2024
Changing seasons and changing weather never fail to keep the imagination and sense of wonder continually moving.
The magnificent Basilica Santa Maria della Salute (February 2025), very important to Venetians and the city, one spot amongst an entire city that encourages thought and contemplation of mind, body, soul and place.....
Long may our connections last
Miles, July 2026